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Paddling back out, I burned to tell somebody about the waveabout the great crack the lip had made as it split the surface behind me, about the mottled amber upper hollows of the inside wall

Disparities in Environmental Exposures to Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals and Diabetes Risk in Vulnerable Populations

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I remember surfing with Bartholomew at his home break in Queensland when he was doing things on waves that the rest of us could not yet comprehend

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